The Mercure Crocodile Hotel in Kakadu is as unique as its ancient, stunning surroundings, as far from the tower of a normal straight-up-down hotel. See what to expect from this kitschy crocodile cradle.
One of the last few roads in Australia where you can legally drive over 110km/h, our Arnhem Highway zooms east from Darwin into Kakadu National Park, 250km to its end.
As we roll through the dusty streets of Jabiru, Australia’s only town in a national park, we get an uneasy feeling that we’re being watched.
Through low trees and bushes, the head and body of a giant crocodile looms, its eyes glowing red in the weak daylight, its large teeth gleaming.
This is the entrance to what must surely be the most Australian hotel—the Mercure Kakadu Crocodile Hotel— which has been built in the shape of a giant two-story tall 270-meter-long spheroid.
Check out the Croc Hotel video here:
Designed and built in the 1980s, this hotel is an interpretation of the ancestor spirits, Ginga, of the Gagudju, who have called this place home for over 60,000 years. Indeed, the name Kakadu is a derivative of their name.
The Croc Hotel was built according to plans submitted by the representative Gagudju Association and, as you will appreciate, has generated a lot of discussion over the years.
Now part of the Accor portfolio, the Croc Hotel it has many of the stylish touches and details you’d expect from this hotel complex, as well as some clever touches of local culture, art and history.
Inside the Mercure Kakadu Crocodile Hotel
But cultural sensitivity aside, it’s clear that the building designers had some fun with the Croc Hotel and, instead of trying to avoid kitsch, embraced it.
Entering through the gaping jaws of this massive beast, we are greeted by a cavernous lobby and reception based on the saffron’s head. After all, this is the brains of the operation. To the left, next to the long check-in desk and—not coincidentally I’m sure—below one eye, is the beginning of the Ocher Gallery.
We leaf through the beautifully crafted objects, objects and paintings around the room and then follow it down the corridor. The gallery fills the side of the head with an amazing collection of art.
As we explore further, into the ‘neck’, we appropriately arrive at the dining room. This is divided into three sections.
To the left is the bar area, followed by the buffet section which serves as breakfast every morning. But the main hall on the right is the Manjmukmuk restaurant (the Escarpment name). Here you can still take advantage of the buffet, but there is also a surprisingly good a la carte selection. More on that later.
Through the back doors of the dining room, we are outside and back into the already warm morning air.
We’re in the pool and garden, surrounded by the two tiers of rooms that line the sides (read ‘ribs’) of the mighty crocus.
Cool and clear under its wide shade, the oval pool beckons us. a tasty respite from the heat of the day.
From the pool, a small stream twists and turns into the garden, and we realize that the pool and the stream are the heart and guts of the crocodile. It reminds us of the x-ray art that Kakadu is known for. ancient rock art showing not only the animal, but also its internal physiology.
What are the rooms like at The Croc Hotel?
It’s important to remember that this hotel was built in the 80s and didn’t expect the luxury travel community to show so much interest in somewhere as remote as Kakadu. To that end, the rooms have a fun retro feel.
While this is in keeping with The Croc’s kitsch vibe, it hasn’t given Accor as much to play with as they’re used to. The bathroom is quite small, the front door opens onto the parking lot and the room is quite boxy.
That said, there’s still a level of quality here that elevates the rooms at the Croc far beyond your average motel. Think Bannisters in Mollymook or Saguaro in Palm Springs.
And the parking lot, by the way, is a series of circles, representing crocodile eggs.
Our room is on the ground floor which means we also have a small screened in terrace overlooking the pool.
Inside, the decor takes advantage of its location, leveraging Indigenous links with lovely wall art and soft furnishings, and features local bathroom amenities from an Aboriginal company. In fact, Kakadu Organics it is owned by the sister of the chef at the other Accor hotel in Kakadu, Cooinda Lodge.
In addition to the king-size bed, there is enough space for a comfortable recline and an architectural reading lamp, a work station and a minibar with a Nespresso machine.
The bathroom won’t win any awards, but it’s clean and everything works. And if you’re going for a swim, you’re in luck here. Not a bad way to recover from a hot day hiking around the national park.
Dinner at Manjmukmuk Restaurant
The restaurant Manjmukmuk (which means “excellent taste” in the local Kundeyhmi language) offers a la carte experience featuring four delicious bush-based dishes.
When you make a reservation for this dinner (and you must make a reservation), they will make you stop. from white sheets and flowers on the table to beautiful places and the best spot in the restaurant.
Our dinner begins with a sirloin steak sourced from Gunbalanya Meats, based in Arnhem Land. This juicy morsel is accompanied by a rich savory béarnaise, a crispy potato croquette and blistered cherry tomatoes.
Next is a fillet of kangaroo smoked in a native paper bark. The meat is tender and tasty, and the zing from the accompanying Kakadu chilli plum dressing over fresh mango and avocado balances the dish well.
The last of the savory dishes is a thick slab of wild-caught barramundi, an icon of the Northern Territory. Perfectly seared on the skin side and delicate and sweet on the other, the bar is wonderful. Served with purple heirloom potatoes, charred broccoli and salsa verde, the kitchen has saved the best for last.
To finish, we are given deconstructed panna cotta with cointreau berries and a macadamia nut and a scoop of mango sorbet together.
It’s a hearty, hearty meal that really showcases not only what the kitchen can do, but the wealth of ingredients available in this part of Australia.
Of course, it’s no surprise that we haven’t been served crocodile.