It doesn’t have to be all billy tea and shock absorbers when exploring the Northern Territory. Here’s the best place for a romantic meal in Kakadu: Mimi’s Restaurant, Cooinda.
Let’s face it, “going bush” doesn’t mean what it used to. I mean, you can still grab a swag and a full water bottle and walk on the big green there if you want, but you don’t have to.
As we travel Kakadu National Parkone of Australia’s most magnificent natural treasures and a place we’ve been lucky enough to visit more than once, Christina and I are impressed by how easy it is to get around.
We find immaculate roads, clear and relevant signs and—as we pull into Cooinda Lodge—realize that it no longer needs to be part of your Kakadu travel vocabulary.
That doesn’t mean this isn’t a wild country, or that you won’t experience the Australian outback as you should.
It’s just easier.
Book your stay in Cooinda here.
What is Cooinda?
Historically a central hub for explorers visiting Kakadu, Cooinda began as a ‘tent store’ in 1964. When crocodile hunter and self-proclaimed ‘busher’ Tom Opitz and his London wife Judy set up shop, Cooinda was more than a supply stop for adventurers in this remote part of the Top End.
Gradually, the site, whose name means “happy meeting place” in Bininj Kunwok, evolved into a kind of motel, although most travelers stayed with their tents.
These days visitors can (and do) still camp here, but exploring the grounds of Cooinda, it’s clear that things have changed beyond anything Tom or Judy would recognize as their pioneer stop.
Everything—from basic camping to luxury lodge-style glamping to a safari lodge—is available here. And along with that, the food offerings are just as wide.
From a catered BBQ and a food truck (in fact, the fish and chips from Too Deadly Takeaway is great) to Mimi’s Restaurantserving a range of bush-inspired dishes, there’s something for everyone, which is sort of what Cooinda is all about.
As we sit at our beautiful table, which is set with native flowers, a locally scented candle and a tablecloth with Aboriginal artwork, restaurant manager Chon comes over to show us some jeans from Willing Distillery in Darwin.
Chef and nutritionist Krystle-Dee Dalton talks us through the dishes she’s prepared
The G&Ts he serves us go down a treat, cooling our blood and awakening our palate. The Desert Lime Gin is bright, sharp and herbal, albeit with an anise flavor that I don’t like as much, but the Kakadu Plum and Quandong Gin is sweeter with more juniper and a floral finish which is excellent.
Willing Distillery is the most northerly distillery in Australia, very close to Darwin Airport. But unless you’re in Darwin or Cooinda, you’re not likely to find this thing. In fact, Chon had to go to Darwin in person to collect these bottles.
For dinner, we’re treated to the tasting plate, which showcases the best of the bush tucker offerings here at Mimi’s.
It is a wonderful mix of local meat: buffalo, kangaroo, crocodile and barramundi.
Mimi’s Tasting Plate at Cooinda Lodge
Rum Jungle Buffalo Filet and Bush Tomato Chutney
This is our first time trying buffalo and it comes as a thick steak. It’s juicy and beefy, but with a slightly gamey finish. It’s the hearty, hearty meat I hoped it would be
Kangaroo Fillet and Mango Quandong Chutney
The kangaroo, cut into thin steaks, is delicate, surprisingly tender and has absolutely no game. This really shows the talent of the kitchen
Salt and Pepper Crocodile and Lemon Myrtle Aioli
Fried in tempura batter, crocodile gouzon are delicious. Delightfully chewy with a crispy coating and a light, subtle flavor
Cardboard barramundi with mixed marinated olives
Smoked in local paper bark, the barramundi is incredible. The smoking has enhanced the light flavor of the fish rather than overpowering it as you might expect
All of this comes with a bowl of very hearty fries and seasoned slaw.
As for dessert, we are presented with exquisite domes of panna cotta, garnished with sweet fermented bush apple and a bold dusting of Kakadu plum powder.
How is the rest of the food in Cooinda?
While here, Christina and I have the opportunity to sample all of the restaurants, including the special menu that Executive Chef Phillip Foote creates from time to time. It’s worth having if any of these menus are available when you’re here.
For us, it’s the Taste of Full Moon menu, which is a riff on our tasting plates and with full portions rather than the small portions we had.
As mentioned before, the fish and chips (and the crocodile tacos that Christina orders) from the Too Deadly Takeaway food truck are to die for, but the ultimate standout for me is my dinner from Barra Bar and Bistro.
The dinner side of Mimi’s (you order from the booth outside rather than the a la carte dining room inside), Barra Bistro has plenty of pub classics on its menu.
My chicken parm burger is probably the best chicken burger I’ve had. Crispy shredded tender chicken, perfectly melted cheese, a generous portion of pickles, creamy delicious salad and a bun that somehow manages to fit it all, plus a huge pile of fries – I’m in heaven.
Of all the things we expected to be impressed with on this trip of a lifetime in Kakadu, the food blew us away.
I’m not saying come to Kakadu just for the food, but when you come here, you might as well leave your billy tea and muffler kit at home!
